"Relocating to the Côte d'Azur, Ducasse became chef of the restaurant at the Hotel Juana in Juan-les-Pins where, in 1985, he was awarded two Michelin stars. Two years later, he was approached by the Hotel de Paris with an offer to take over the gloriously ornate Louis XV restaurant. In an act of seemingly foolish bravura, Ducasse agreed to a clause in the contract by which he agreed to win three Michelin stars in four years - an almost impossible task. He did it in three. And he did it by detoxing French haute cuisine and ridding it of much of its excesses. There is far less cream and butter in his cooking, and far more reliance on simple flavourings such as extra-virgin olive oil, lemon, herbs and sea salt."